What to wear whale watching in Alaska
Hoonah can feel mild at the dock, then the boat picks up speed and the deck feels a season colder. Out on Icy Strait the summer air usually sits around 50–60 °F (10–16 °C), and rain is more likely than not. This guide goes layer by layer, then shows what each boat lends so you can pack a little less.
The deck runs colder than the town
Hoonah lies within the Tongass National Forest, which is temperate rainforest, so a dry port day is a bonus rather than the rule. Summer afternoons in town reach roughly 55–65 °F (13–18 °C), which feels pleasant on the walk from the ship. Out on the strait the air is usually about 50–60 °F (10–16 °C), and the boat makes its own breeze on top. Reviewers describe a run of roughly 40–60 minutes out to the whales, at speed, with spray coming off the bow when the water is choppy. After that you stand still at the rail for long stretches while a humpback feeds, and standing still in a cold wind chills people far more than the number on any forecast.
Most tours spend about 2.5 of their 3 hours afloat. Every boat has some kind of cabin, but the whales surface outside it, and the passengers who enjoy the day most are the ones dressed to stay on deck. Treat the cabin as the place to thaw between sightings, not the place to spend the trip.
Layers from skin to shell
Several thin layers beat one heavy coat, because you will move between a warm cabin and an open deck again and again. Build them up like this.
- A base layer. Synthetic fabric or merino wool next to the skin. Cotton soaks up rain and sweat and then stays cold;
- A warm middle. A fleece or a light insulated jacket, the piece you peel off inside;
- A waterproof shell with a hood. A rain jacket that also stops wind matters more than anything else on this list. On a wet forecast add rain pants, since jeans soak through on a damp bench and take hours to dry;
- A warm hat and gloves. Icy Strait Whale Adventures asks guests to bring a hat and mittens, advice that suits every boat. Thin gloves under the mittens let you work a phone without baring your hands;
- A scarf or neck gaiter. It weighs almost nothing and stops the wind finding the gap at your collar.
If your cruise includes a scenic day in Glacier Bay, you probably packed most of this already. If your suitcase is light on warm clothes, a packable down jacket under a rain shell closes most of the gap.
Shoes that grip a wet deck
Decks get wet from rain and spray, and the boat shifts under you when a wave rolls through. Wear waterproof or quick-drying shoes with a soft sole that grips, such as trail runners or light hiking boots. Smooth leather soles slide on a wet deck, and sandals leave toes cold and exposed. A spare pair of socks in the bag weighs nothing and feels wonderful on the van back.
Your shoes also carry you to the boat. Most tours meet at the Excursions Hub, a few minutes on foot from the ship, but Catch of the Day, from ~$236, picks up at the port's main entrance after a flat 10–15-minute walk through the port. Hoonah Travel Adventures offers an optional half hour in town after its cruise, which also favors comfortable shoes. Icy Strait Point on a port day walks through every meeting point.
Sun glare and the small things
Even under cloud, light bounces off the water, and on a bright day the glare makes a distant blow hard to pick out. Polarized sunglasses help with both. Wear sunscreen too, because June daylight lasts about 18 hours and the wind hides a burn until evening. The rest fits in a small daypack.
- A refillable water bottle. Catch of the Day has said it will stop handing out bottled water, and your own bottle helps on any boat;
- A small dry bag. One for the phone and the cruise card, since spray finds its way into pockets;
- Cash for the crew. US crews expect a tip, and a listing may or may not mention gratuities. Check yours, and bring some cash for the captain and deckhands;
- A printed confirmation. Hoonah Travel Adventures says the port offers no wifi and phones get no signal there, so print your booking and the directions before you leave the ship;
- Binoculars, if you own a pair. Only one of the six main tours lends them.
Hot chocolate between sightings
Glacier Wind Charters takes 13 guests at most on a purpose-built whale boat with a restroom on board, from ~$285. Hot chocolate comes with the snacks. Guests must be 9 or older, and the booking is non-refundable and cannot be changed.
What each boat lends or serves
No listing promises a whole outfit, but several cover part of one. The table sums up what the six main tours say about shelter and warm extras, with the lower "from" price per adult.
| Tour | From | Shelter on board | Gear and warm extras |
|---|---|---|---|
| Alaska Whales & Drones (our pick) | ~$250 | Inside cabin and outside deck | Snack bars and bottled water |
| Hoonah Travel Adventures | ~$225 | Heated cabin and viewing deck | Snacks |
| Catch of the Day | ~$236 | Heated cabin plus deck | Snacks; bring your own water bottle |
| Glacier Wind Charters | ~$285 | Room inside and out, restroom | Hot chocolate with the snacks |
| Icy Strait Whale Adventures | ~$302 | Indoor seats, windows that open | Rain gear and binoculars to borrow |
| Hoonah Whale Tours | ~$314 | Heated catamaran cabin, restroom | Hot drinks and homemade muffins |
Borrowed rain gear is rare. Only Icy Strait Whale Adventures, from ~$302, lists it, and since that boat runs in all weather except small craft advisories, the gear gets used. For something hot after a wet hour at the rail, Glacier Wind Charters, from ~$285, serves hot chocolate, and Hoonah Whale Tours, from ~$314, pours hot drinks in the heated cabin of its catamaran. Both of those two are non-refundable and cannot be changed, so book them once your port day looks settled. Hoonah Travel Adventures, from ~$225, also keeps a heated cabin behind its viewing deck. Small boats, big boats, whale guarantees compares the cabins in more detail.
Dressing for the land tours
Two extras on this site keep you mostly ashore. Hoonah Beach House runs a crab feast and village tour, from ~$195, which shows you crab pulled up on a local fishing boat and walks you through Hoonah before the meal. It involves no whale watching at all, and the village walk goes ahead in whatever weather the day brings, so you still want the rain shell and the shoes that grip.
Hoonah Travel Adventures' Chichagof Island brown bear search, from ~$164, heads into the island's forest in a van with a small group. Paths there turn muddy after rain, which calls for boots rather than sneakers. Reviews are split (it averages 3.9 stars from Viator reviewers and 4.2 from GetYourGuide's), and no guide can promise a bear on a given day.
When the forecast says rain
Rain alone rarely stops a whale tour; wind is what cancels, usually when a small craft advisory goes up. Whales feed whatever the weather, so a wet day can still be a good one if you dress to stay outside while others retreat to the cabin. Fresh air on deck also helps an uneasy stomach, and seasickness on Icy Strait whale tours explains why a stuffy cabin makes it worse. Children lose heat faster than adults, so pack a spare layer for each; whale watching in Hoonah with kids covers the rest of a family's bag. To keep a camera dry, read photographing whales from the boat, and the best time for whales in Hoonah follows the weather from May through September.